Ecuador
The regions of Ecuador.
Ecuador compresses distinct worlds into a remarkably small map. You can wake up amidst the cold, jagged volcanic peaks of the Andes, drop down into the dense canopy of Tena by afternoon, and eventually hit the humid, heavy air of the Pacific coast. Each geographical shift brings a completely different pace of life, moving from the quiet, stoic mountain villages to the restless energy of coastal cities. It is a country designed for those who prefer their landscapes to change before they have even finished digesting breakfast
Things to do in Ecuador.
Forget the rigid tour bus itineraries and the mandatory group photos; the real appeal lies in navigating the colonial plazas on your own clock. Spend hours watching the afternoon light hit the baroque stonework of Quito’s historic centre, or observe the meticulous work of leather artisans in mountain towns like Cotacachi. True exploration here means finding an old wooden bench, ordering an empanada, and letting the regional rhythm dictate your day. The best itineraries are the ones you scratch out on a napkin after a long afternoon of doing absolutely nothing touristy
The top attractions in Ecuador / A volcanic journey through the Middle of the World
High altitudes and island attitudes
Discover the Ecuadorian Sierra / Top sights in the Avenue of the Volcanoes
The ultimate guide to the best attractions in the Ecuadorian Andes
Into the green / The 6 most iconic attractions in the Ecuadorian Amazon
Navigating the soul of the Oriente on your own terms
Hidden gems in Ecuador.
Finding the soul of this country requires turning away from the main squares where the souvenir stalls line the pavements. It is found in the unmapped dirt tracks of the cloud forest or a quiet corner of an ancient parish like Cubijíes, where artisans still craft traditional blankets away from commercial crowds. These are the places where time slows to an enviable crawl, and the only other outsiders are the low-hanging clouds. You will not find signs pointing the way, which is precisely why they are worth looking for
Cuenca
The prettiest city in the Americas
Baños
Ecuador’s adventure capital
Olón
Relax on the coast
Where to stay in Ecuador.
Skip the sterile, international hotel chains that look the same in every hemisphere. Instead, seek out old, repurposed haciendas with creaking floorboards and sprawling interior courtyards, or a modest, family-run hostal in the coastal surf enclave of Montañita. There is an understated charm in waking up to the sound of roosters and the smell of strong local coffee rather than an elevator chime. Your best bet is always a place where the keys are heavy brass and the host can tell you where to find the best local stew down the street
Where to stay in the Galápagos Islands
Embrace the wild rhythm of the islands, and find your perfect sanctuary
Where to stay in Tena / The best campsites in the Amazon
Sleep deep in the heart of the rainforest
Where to eat and drink in Ecuador.
The culinary landscape is best experienced away from white tablecloths, preferably with a bowl of locro de papa in a crowded market hall or a fresh plate of seafood along the coast. In Guayaquil, skip the waterfront tourist traps and head straight to El Barco, the riverside outpost of Odisea Brewing, where a crisp Kraken IPA cuts right through the coastal humidity. From bitter oatmeal stouts in dark corners to street-side vendors flipping plantains over open coals, the flavours here are unapologetic and deeply regional. It is food and drink meant to be consumed casually, with a view of the river or the street
The best places to eat and drink in Quito, Ecuador
High-altitude flavours / Your guide to Quito’s culinary scene
Discovering the culinary soul of Cuenca, Ecuador
The best restaurants and bars in Cuenca, Ecuador / A foodie’s guide
When to visit Ecuador.
Ecuador operates on its own meteorological whim, though the dry season between June and September offers the crispest mountain views and the most reliable blue skies. Even then, the equatorial sun plays by its own rules, trading blistering heat for sudden, dramatic downpours that clear the streets in minutes. The smart move is to embrace the shift in seasons as a natural pause button, an excuse to duck inside a cafe or wait out the rain under a colonial archway. If you expect predictable weather, you are missing the point of how life moves around here
When to visit Ecuador / The ultimate guide to the land of eternal spring
Monthly weather guide and seasonal highlights
Is Ecuador safe?
Navigating Ecuador safely requires the same sharp instincts you would use in any vibrant, unpredictable corner of the world. Cities like Guayaquil have areas that demand your full attention and a healthy dose of street smarts, particularly after dark when the shadows lengthen. Keep your wits about you, check in with the locals at your guest house before heading out, and avoid flashing expensive kit on the street. Travel with a quiet confidence, stay observant, and you will find that common sense is your most reliable guide
Navigating the Middle of the World / A realistic guide to safety in Ecuador
Ecuador travel safety 2026 / Crime rates, regional risks, and cycling advice
The history of Ecuador.
The past here is not confined to glass cases in a museum; it is baked right into the crumbling volcanic stone of the buildings and the uneven cobblestones beneath your tyres. From ancient Inca ruins sitting quietly in the high moorlands to the grand, imposing Spanish colonial architecture of the cities, layers of conquest and resilience are visible at every turn. It is a complex, sometimes heavy narrative that reveals itself slowly to those who take the time to look closely. To understand the current pace of life, you have to appreciate the centuries of friction that shaped it
The northern sun / A journey through the history of Ecuador
Discover the essential history of Ecuador from ancient civilisations to modern independence
Ecuadorian cycling culture.
Cycling in Ecuador is a glorious, leg-burning exercise in humility, defined by roads that prefer to go straight up the mountainside rather than compromise with a hairpin turn. While cities like Quito are slowly carving out space for active transport infrastructure, the true spirit of Ecuadorian cycling lives on the brutal, historic cobblestones that will make you feel like you are riding the Paris-Roubaix in the shadow of a volcano. Legally, the Ley Orgánica de Transporte Terrestre gives you equal right to the tarmac, but practically, you will still need a sharp eye and a sturdy set of tyres. It is tough, unrelenting, and entirely addictive for anyone who prefers two wheels to a tour bus
Epic cycling in Ecuador
The ultimate guide to cycling in Ecuador / Routes, culture, and infrastructure
Driving culture and road safety
Driver attitudes, road traffic statistics, and road safety laws for cyclists
Cycling laws in Ecuador
Everything you need to know about cycling laws and regulations in Ecuador
Ecuador’s cycling history
A guide to the cycling history, bicycle culture, and bike routes
Everything we’ve written about Ecuador.
Top attractions in Puyo, Ecuador: The authentic Amazon gate
Best coffee in Cuenca, Ecuador: 6 must-visit cafés
The best coffee in Tena, Ecuador: A guide for independent travellers
A first-timer’s guide to Cuenca, Ecuador
Best campsites in Puyo: Sleeping at the gateway to the Amazon
The best places to camp in Tena, Ecuador: Amazonian stays
Discovering Ecuador’s hidden gems
Guayaquil safety guide: Essential travel advice
24 hours in Quito: An independent slow travel itinerary
Top Restaurants in Quito: Where to eat like a local
The top attractions in Montañita: The ultimate guide to Ecuador’s Coast
The history of Quito: A deep dive into the Andean capital
Where to stay in the Galápagos Islands: Independent traveller guide
The history of Tena, Ecuador: Jungle and Amazonian legends
The best things to do in Cuyabeno: A guide to Ecuador’s flooded forest
The best bars in Quito, Ecuador
Visiting Puyo, Ecuador: A first-time guide to the real Amazon gateway
The undiscovered Pacific: 6 hidden gems on the Ecuadorian Coast
Safety in the Ecuadorian Sierra 2026: A definitive guide for travellers
The resilient history of Guayaquil: Pirates, fire, and freedom
A guide to Guayaquil’s hidden gems: Uncovering the Pearl’s soul
Bike opinions.
Your source for my thoughts on bikes, road safety and active transport