Cuenca

Things to do in Cuenca.

Spend your hours tracing the red-tiled rooflines and the blue domes of the New Cathedral. Cuenca is a city best understood by navigating its cobblestone grids until the colonial geometry starts to make sense. Skip the curated spectacles and find a quiet corner of the Tomebamba riverbank to watch the water ignore the 16th-century walls

More things to do in the Ecuadorian Sierra.

The Pan-American Highway cuts through the Avenue of the Volcanoes, offering a vertical landscape that demands respect from your lungs. Stop in towns where the Sunday market remains a functional necessity rather than a performance for outsiders. From the wind-swept paramo to the crater lakes, the Sierra rewards those who prefer thin air and high-altitude silence

Quito

The Virgin of Quito on El Panecillo, wurrounded by an orange sky at sunset.

The Middle of the World

Baños

A woman swings into the clouds in the Casa Del Arbol in Baños, Ecuador.

In the shadow of the volcano

Loja

Pigeons sit in a fountain in front of a statue in Loja, Ecuador.

Ecuador’s musical heart

Where to stay in Cuenca.

Look for converted Republican-era mansions that have traded heavy gilding for clean linens and soaring ceilings. Prioritize establishments with internal courtyards that effectively muffle the city’s rhythmic hum. You want a heavy brass key and a room that feels like it has survived several centuries of seismic and political shifts without losing its composure

Where to eat and drink in Cuenca.

Seek out mote pillo in a corner eatery where the furniture is as sturdy as the service. The local coffee scene is finally prioritizing high-altitude beans that actually taste like the volcanic soil they were pulled from. In the evenings, skip the neon signs and find the basement bars serving artisanal spirits that carry the sharp kick of the Andes

When to visit Cuenca.

Prepare for four seasons in a single afternoon and pack your layers with pragmatic intent. April brings the rains that keep the highlands lush, while the dry window of July and August offers a crisp clarity that suits the city’s stone facades. The calendar is largely secondary to the permanent, contemplative mood of the mountain air

Is Cuenca safe?

The question of safety in Cuenca is less about constant peril and more about maintaining a baseline of sensible detachment. While the coast deals with its own heavy weather, Cuenca remains largely insulated by the Andes, though a state of emergency means you might encounter more fatigues and rifles than your average morning commute requires. Treat the historic center after dark with the same healthy skepticism you’d give a cheap padlock

Ecuadorian cycling culture.

In the Sierra, cycling is less of a hobby and more of a tactical battle against gravity and oxygen deprivation. You will share the narrow shoulders with heavy-duty buses and the occasional stray calf, earning every descent through sheer physical stubbornness. The quiet nod of respect from a mountain local as you summit a pass is worth more than any digital trophy

Driving culture and road safety

An old red road bike leans against a red brick wall in Guayaquil, Ecuador.

Driver attitudes, road traffic statistics, and road safety laws for cyclists

Cycling laws in Ecuador

A woman rides an upright bike. She's in a dress and a helmet, and looks like she is checking the way is clear.

Everything you need to know about cycling laws and regulations in Czechia

Ecuador’s cycling history

Mountain bikes lie in front of a Toyota pickup. There's on on e the roof too. The foothills of Cotopaxi surround the truck

A guide to the cycling history, bicycle culture, and bike routes

Everything we’ve written about Cuenca.

Ecuador.

Discover this incredible country.